'Medical Memoir' is a Health & Me series that delves into some of the most intriguing medical histories and unveils how medical innovations have evolved over time. Here, we trace the early stages of all things health, whether a vaccine, a treatment, a pill, or a cure.

The times are such that you cannot think of self time without skin care and the key ingredient for many is retinol.

Retinol might be the darling of today’s beauty shelves—appearing in everything from luxury serums to drugstore creams—but behind this “anti-aging miracle” lies a brutal and unsettling history. Long before Teen Vogue, a media platform and many influencers hailed its power, before dermatologists prescribed its potent cousin tretinoin (marketed as Retin-A), experiments were being carried out on unsuspecting, incarcerated people in one of the darkest chapters in American medical research.

A Beauty Breakthrough with a Brutal Backstory

Now, Teen Vogue itself reported the dark history that many have forgotten about their daily skincare routine.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is celebrated for its ability to treat acne, smooth wrinkles, and renew skin. Unlike harsher retinoids, it’s considered gentler and more accessible—earning praise across generations, from skincare enthusiasts to tweens with their first cleanser kits. But its powerful predecessor, tretinoin, has a history stained with medical abuse and human rights violations.

That wrinkle-erasing tube of Retin-A owes its discovery to experiments that took place not in a pristine lab, but behind bars.

In Philadelphia’s now-shuttered Holmesburg Prison, between 1951 and 1974, dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman led a series of medical experiments on hundreds of incarcerated individuals—most of them Black men who were never fully informed of what was being done to their bodies.

Testing on the Vulnerable

Desperate for cash, many prisoners signed up for what they were told were harmless medical trials. But what awaited them were “patch tests” involving untested chemicals, flesh biopsies, mystery injections, spinal needles, and creams so toxic they burned through skin. Kligman once admitted to using tretinoin at a concentration of 1%—forty times stronger than the standard 0.025% used today. “I damn near killed people before I could see a real benefit,” he boasted to Philadelphia Magazine.

Many participants were left scarred for life—both physically and psychologically.

As author Allen Hornblum documented in Acres of Skin, survivors carried discolored skin, medical trauma, and lingering wounds long after they left prison. Women weren’t spared either; incarcerated women were subjected to unethical testing of menstrual products, without proper consent or concern for their well-being.

Never Said Yes To Trials

The trials conducted by Kligman offered a chilling glimpse into how little value was placed on prisoner lives. Most test subjects were awaiting trial, not yet convicted of any crime. Many were illiterate and unable to fully grasp the documents they were signing. “They were just preying on people,” former inmate Al Butler recalled. “Using an inmate was cheaper than buying a chimpanzee—and the results were better.”

This wasn’t fringe science. Major players like Johnson & Johnson, Pfizer, Dow Chemical, and even the U.S. Army backed these studies, as reported Teen Vogue. Prisoners were exposed not just to tretinoin, but to asbestos, radioactive isotopes, mind-altering drugs like LSD, and even chemical warfare agents. Dow Chemical’s trial involving dioxin—a cancer-causing ingredient in Agent Orange—was stopped only after Kligman ramped up the dosage without approval.

Someone's Pain, Someone Else's Profit

While Kligman went on to enjoy academic prestige and enormous wealth—telling MacNeil/Lehrer NewsHour in 1988, “We are swimming in cash”—his test subjects were left with next to nothing. When survivors like Jerome Roach and Leodus Jones tried to sue, their cases were dismissed. Even when nearly 300 victims filed a lawsuit in 2000, it was tossed on a technicality: the statute of limitations had expired.

And still, Kligman defended his actions until the end. “I still don’t see there having been anything wrong with what we were doing,” he said in 2006, just four years before his death at age 93.

A Reckoning, Decades Too Late

It wasn’t until the late 1990s, after Hornblum’s book brought the horrors of Holmesburg to public attention, that institutions began to take notice.

In 2021, pressure mounted when dermatologist Dr. Jules Lipoff co-authored a JAMA Dermatology piece demanding the University of Pennsylvania sever its ties with Kligman. A public petition followed. That summer, the university issued a formal apology, pulled Kligman’s name from professorships and lectures, and directed funds toward dermatological equity research. The City of Philadelphia apologized in 2022. The College of Physicians rescinded Kligman’s lifetime achievement award in 2023.

But for survivors and their families, apologies aren’t enough.

"My Daddy’s Skin Is in Those Jars"

Adrianne Jones-Alston, daughter of Leodus Jones, who was experimented on by Kligman, continues to speak out. At a recent panel held by the University of Pennsylvania Carey Law School, she didn’t mince words: “We’re talking billions of dollars—and my daddy’s skin is in those jars. Share the wealth. After all, they paid the price.”

The fight for reparations continues. As millions benefit from the cream that started it all, the people who made it possible are still waiting for justice.

Known for her iconic role as Claire in the Modern Family, Julie Bowen who is a versatile American actress, recently spoke about the rare heart condition she's was diagnosed with at 29.

Speaking about it on the first episode of 'Inside of You' with host Micheal Rosenbaum, Julie revealed her condition 'shy sinus syndrome' that caused her to have a low resting heart rate. She also explained how, due to the condition, she also has had a pacemaker put in place.

Lifelong Low Heart Rate and a Surprising Diagnosis

Bowen explained that she has always had a remarkably low resting heart rate, even around 30 beats per minute at times, a significant deviation from the normal range of 60 to 100 beats per minute for women. This was due to sick sinus syndrome, a heart rhythm disorder exacerbated in her case by hypervagotonia, an overactive vagus nerve. Despite being a competitive runner, her low heart rate was a constant, though initially unexplained, characteristic.

The John Hopkins Medicine explains that sick sinus syndrome (SSS) occurs when your heart's natural pacemaker, the sinoatrial (SA) node in the upper right chamber, becomes damaged and can no longer regulate your heartbeat properly. This damage can result from underlying medical conditions or certain medications, leading to heartbeats that are too slow, too fast, or fluctuate between both extremes.

Recognizing the Symptoms

You might have SSS with no symptoms at all, or only mild ones. However, if symptoms do appear, they can include:

• Dizziness
• Fainting (syncope)
• Shortness of breath, especially with physical activity
• Heart palpitations (a fluttering or pounding sensation in your chest)
• Chest pain

How Is Sick Sinus Syndrome Diagnosed?

The turning point for Julie came thanks to her sister, Annie Luetkemeyer, who had just graduated from medical school. During a family vacation, her sister, still in the habit of carrying a stethoscope, insisted on listening to Bowen's heart. "That is not what they've been telling you, and it's not runner's heart or whatever. That means you need to go to a cardiologist," her sister declared, refusing to let the issue drop

Your healthcare provider might suspect SSS based on your symptoms, but these symptoms can be common to many other conditions. To confirm a diagnosis, your provider will likely perform an electrocardiogram (ECG), which records your heart's electrical activity, rate, and rhythm. If you're not experiencing symptoms during the ECG, the results may appear normal. Other diagnostic tests that may be used include:

Stress test: An ECG performed while you exercise on a treadmill.

Holter monitor: A portable device you wear for over 24 hours to continuously record your heart's electrical activity.

Event recorder: A device worn for several days that records your heart rate only when symptoms occur.

Electrophysiologic testing: A hospital procedure where catheters are threaded into your heart through a vein in your thigh to study its electrical system.

Echocardiogram: An ultrasound of your heart to check for structural problems.

Treatment Options For SSS

About a month after her sister's crucial warning, Bowen was filming the pilot for "Ed" when she was faced with the reality of needing a pacemaker. Initially, the news was daunting. "I was like, 'Oh my God. My life is over. This is so weird. I'm gonna die,'" she recalled. However, doctors explained that while the condition wasn't immediately fatal, it would lead to her frequently passing out.

Bowen described a sensation of lightheadedness, particularly when she was relaxed, feeling "like I'd been holding my breath for a while." The critical warning that solidified her decision was the risk of passing out while driving and potentially harming someone. "Oh, well, then give me the Goddamn pacemaker," she decided.

Her pacemaker is now set to ensure her heart rate doesn't drop below 45 beats per minute. She shared that the surgical insertion was done discreetly through her armpit, leaving no visible scar. While she's had to have the batteries replaced three times, she largely forgets about it now, a testament to how seamlessly it has integrated into her life.

While this is one way to treat her condition, here are some other ways your doctor may choose to go about your treatment,

Medication adjustment

If certain medications are contributing to your SSS, your healthcare provider may change your prescription.

Blood thinners

Because SSS can increase the risk of blood clots forming in the heart and leading to a stroke, you may be prescribed blood thinners as a preventive measure.

Alpha-gal syndrome (AGS) is a potentially life-threatening allergy to red meat and other products derived from mammals. Unlike typical food allergies that cause immediate reactions, AGS symptoms can appear several hours after consumption. These range from hives and nausea to anaphylaxis and, in rare cases, heart attacks. The syndrome is triggered by a sugar molecule called galactose-α-1,3-galactose (or alpha-gal), which is introduced into the human body through the bite of a lone star tick.

Why are lone star ticks spreading?

Lone star ticks, named for the white dot found on the backs of females, have long been native to the southeastern United States. But in recent years, their range has expanded dramatically — now reaching as far north as Maine and westwards toward the central US. Experts say this is largely due to the warming climate, which has made previously inhospitable regions more suitable for tick survival and reproduction.

This spread is also helped by other factors such as:

• Increased deer populations (which host ticks)
• Urban development that pushes human dwellings closer to wild habitats
• Lack of natural barriers, such as mountain ranges, in some regions

How common is AGS?

The true number of alpha-gal syndrome cases is difficult to determine due to inconsistent data collection and lack of awareness. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has documented about 110,000 cases since 2010, but estimates suggest the actual number could be as high as 450,000. Many people may never realise their allergic reactions are linked to a tick bite.

What makes these ticks dangerous?

Lone star ticks are notoriously aggressive. They are capable of detecting humans by sensing heat and carbon dioxide and will actively pursue a host. They can even move quickly over short distances, increasing the chances of biting.

The concept of a “tick bomb” — a cluster of tiny juvenile ticks that swarm over anything they encounter — adds another terrifying element to their behavior.

Living with alpha-gal

For those diagnosed with AGS, life can change dramatically. Aside from cutting out red meat (beef, pork, lamb), many patients also have to avoid dairy, gelatin, and even some medications, toothpaste, and medical products derived from mammals. Food choices become limited and dining out risky. In severe cases, even airborne particles from cooking meat can trigger a reaction.

Support groups are growing rapidly, especially in affected regions like Virginia, where community members share coping strategies and advocate for clearer food labelling.

What’s next?

As the climate warms and tick populations expand, AGS may affect millions more. Other tick-borne illnesses like Lyme disease, Babesia, and the deadly Powassan virus are also on the rise.

Yet, despite this growing threat, researchers warn that US funding for tick-borne disease research is shrinking. Experts stress the urgent need for better surveillance, education, and treatment options to confront what could become a nationwide health crisis.

The choice of quitting oral contraceptives is a personal one, usually related to shifting life priorities—whether it's switching to another type of birth control, getting pregnant, or just needing a break from hormone synthetics. But for many women, going off the pill isn't only about changing periods. For some, it can also mean the return of unwanted acne—sometimes more stubborn and long-lasting than the breakouts of your teenage years.

If you assumed your days of fighting breakouts were over, stopping the pill can be a rude shock. Why does this occur, and how can you prevent it? As a health editor to a worldwide audience, I've spoken to dermatologists and sifted through the most recent evidence to give you an in-depth guide to managing post-pill acne.

Why Does Acne Suddenly Break Out After Stopping the Pill?

The birth-control pill is not only a pregnancy-prevention tool—it's also a hormone controller that has a major impact on skin health. Some women are put on the pill simply to manage acne due to its effect of inhibiting androgens (male hormones) and sebum (skin oil) production. When you discontinue the pill, your body needs to re-balance its hormones, which often means a short spike in androgens. This hormonal storm can put the oil glands in your skin into overdrive, producing clogged pores and breakouts.

The transition phase has been likened to "hormonal chaos." Your ovaries, which had been maintained with artificial estrogen and progesterone, suddenly take over their natural role, sometimes compensating by producing more androgens than previously. This rush of oil production sets the stage for the acne-causing bacteria to thrive.

The birth control pill, particularly combination pills containing estrogen and progestin, inhibits this androgen activity. When the pill is discontinued, the body's natural hormonal cycles return, including the production of androgens, which can overburden the skin's oil-controlling systems—especially if your body is genetically predisposed to be sensitive to these hormones.

Not necessarily. How your skin reacts after coming off the pill depends heavily on your genetics and any underlying hormonal imbalances. For instance, some women start the pill in their teens before acne ever truly develops. In these cases, the pill may be silently suppressing a genetic predisposition to acne, which becomes apparent only after discontinuation.

In some women, the recurrence of acne can indicate a pre-existing covered-up hormonal issue, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS)—a prevalent endocrine disorder that involves high levels of androgens. In these women, the pill corrects PCOS's evident signs, but when it is withdrawn, the underlying imbalance reappears.

Where and How Does Post-Pill Acne Appear?

Hormonal acne tends to appear in the lower third of the face—jowl, chin, neck—and sometimes the shoulders, chest, or back. It tends to be made up of cysts or inflamed, painful pimples that are deep, not blackheads or whiteheads you may have experienced in puberty.

This pattern is related to sites of increased androgen receptor concentration and oil gland function. But everyone's experience is different: some people have solo flare-ups, others experience more widespread outbreaks.

Women with a history of acne in their families or those with naturally higher androgen levels are at increased risk. Stress, food intake, and even gut health can also determine the intensity and longevity of post-pill breakouts.

What Does Post-Pill Acne Look Like?

Hormonal acne tends to appear on the lower third of the face—chinion and jawline, basically—but can crop up on the chest, shoulders, or back. The eruptions can be as mild as blackheads and whiteheads, or as severe and painful as cystic acne. For some, the flare-up fades in a few months; for others, it can last for a year or more, particularly if there are strong genetic components involved.

The timeline is different. Most women see their acne flaring two to six months after stopping the pill. In some, it could improve a few months later as the hormones balance out. But for others—particularly those with a strong genetic inclination toward acne—it might continue for up to a year or even longer.

In the opinion of dermatologists, your acne's severity and duration will usually reflect your body's sensitivity to hormones. If your body responds strongly to even minor hormonal changes, post-pill acne can be more serious and persist for a longer period.

Can Skincare Alone Treat It?

Here's the bad news: skincare can't change your hormones or your genetic sensitivity to androgens. Although regular skincare can help maintain healthy skin, prevent breakouts, and downsize inflammation, in most cases, it is seldom sufficient to treat post-pill acne in moderate to severe forms.

Over-the-counter remedies such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids might provide relief. But dermatologists sometimes prescribe stronger medications, such as:

• Topical antibiotics or retinoids to decrease bacteria and inflammation
• Oral antibiotics in moderate to severe cases
• Hormonal treatments such as spironolactone, which blocks androgen receptors
• Isotretinoin (Accutane) for severe, cystic acne that is nonresponsive to other treatment

Could This Be a Sign of a Bigger Hormonal Imbalance?

Yes. In many cases, post-pill acne acts as a window into your natural hormonal landscape. If your acne is accompanied by other symptoms—like irregular periods, excess facial hair, or unexplained weight gain—it might be worth exploring conditions like PCOS or insulin resistance with your healthcare provider.

Coming off the pill can reveal long-standing imbalances that were previously being managed rather than resolved.

When to See a Dermatologist?

If your acne is bad, ongoing, or emotionally distressing, see a dermatologist. They can diagnose underlying hormonal imbalances, provide effective treatments, and offer advice specific to your needs. Women with symptoms of PCOS—irregular menstruation, excessive hair, or weight gain—may need a referral to an endocrinologist.

Post-pill acne isn't your fault, and it's not permanent. Although it can be an infuriating obstacle, particularly if you thought you could put acne behind you after adolescence, it's also a chance to learn more about your body's individual hormonal map.

If you’re thinking of coming off the pill, talk to your healthcare provider about what to expect and how to prepare. Remember, you’re not alone—and with the right support, clearer skin is within reach.